Thanks
to the new autoroutes and rail service connecting Paris with le Massif’s major
towns, visitors are now discovering a vast and unspoiled region offering
spectacular scenery, as well as a wide variety of outdoor activities. Canoeing,
skiing, hiking and rafting are all popular ways to experience le Massif. With its crater lakes and hot springs,
Auvergne is the volcanic core of le Massif Central while in the south west are
the gorges and valleys of the Lot and Tarn rivers with their spectacular cliff
hanging villages. In the western region
of Limousin, the countryside relaxes into green pastures and narrow winding
lanes – somewhat reminiscent of the area around Robertson – while in the east
are the Grands Causses; barren plateaux yielding a meagre living to those who
farm them.
In addition to its incredible
physical beauty, le Massif Central is also home to hundreds of churches,
chateaux and museums. Lovers of art, history and architecture can enjoy a
unique cultural experience accompanied by hearty regional cuisine and excellent
local wines. Limoges, the capital of the
Limousin region and a thriving university town, is known throughout the world
for its porcelain. A visit to this area would not be complete without a tour of
one of the well-known manufacturers, such as Bernardaud. 25km north of Limoges lies the village of
Oradour-sur-Glane, where on 10 June 1944, Nazi soldiers herded the inhabitants
into the church and burned alive the entire population. Today the ruins stand as a memorial to the
200 or so people who Montlucon is the economic centre of le Massif Central. This ancient city has a medieval town at its centre, dominated by a Bourbon chateau and the beautiful 12th Century Eglise de St Pierre. One of the most striking Romanesque churches in Auvergne is the Eglise-St-Nectaire in St Nectaire le Haut, which boasts 103 intricately carved stone columns. The 14th century abbey church of St Robert is reason alone to visit the small village of La Chaise-Dieu. Its Choir contains 144 oak stalls covered in some of the loveliest tapestries in France, rich in colour and detail and depicting scenes from the Old and New Testaments.
The town of Vichy was originally made famous by Napoleon III when it became a fashionable place amongst the French nobility for taking the waters. It has since been frequented by tourists for its hot and cold springs. During World War Two the term “Vichy France” was used to refer to a wartime government based in Vichy, which lasted from July 1940 until the Germans finally took over all of France. Its violent history is difficult to grasp when attending a contemporary outdoor concert in Vichy, water skiing on the huge lake in the middle of town or shopping under a glass-
Heading south into La Correze are two magnificent towns. Located a short drive from Brive-la-Gaillarde (fondly known as le Riant Portail du Midi), picturesque Collonges-la-Rouge was founded in the 8th century and was built only of hand made red brick, hence the name. Its unique architecture gives an effect which is both austere and beautiful. Turenne is a medieval town with stunning 360 degree views from its ruined chateau over the Cantal Mountains across to the Dordogne valley.
The Cantal Mountains were originally one enormous volcano dating from the Tertiary Period. Three great volcanoes combine to make up the Monts Dore, heavily wooded mountains covered in rivers and lakes. Visitors can enjoy both summer and winter activities such as skiing, hiking, sailing and canoeing. Today there are more than 100 extinct volcanoes aligned across a 30km stretch, just west of Clermont Ferrand, of which perhaps the most famous are located in the town of Le Puy. The town has three giant basalt pinnacles - upon each sits a landmark church or statue, which seen from afar is one of the most impressive sights in France.
In the southern part of le Massif Central, in the Tarn valley, lie some of Europe’s most spectacular gorges and limestone caves. The most famous of these are the Caves of Lascaux, which in 1979 were added to the UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites.
The original caves have been closed off to visitors for a number of years since the construction of a complete replica which has been meticulously painted to reproduce the ancient drawings. When I visited these caves last year, I was fascinated to learn that recent studies have revealed links to the artwork of the ancient Australian Aborigines.
If all
this isn’t enough to make you want to visit le Massif Central, then this
will: The region is the home of foie gras and cepes, of delicious cheeses such
as cabecou (goats cheese) and cantal (made in huge wheels), of clafoutis
(cherry tart) and more recently le Trepais (the most sublime three layered cake
made with chestnut mousse, chocolate mousse and hazelnut praline). Although the
hearty cuisine is not for those with light appetites, the specialties are truly
amazing. Accompanied by wonderful local wines and liqueurs, they will, if
over-indulged, undoubtedly lead to that unique French malady, “la crise de
foie”. Even
those of you who don't speak a word of French are probably familiar with this
most French of phrases, which is literally translated as a “crisis of the
liver” (better known to foreigners as severe indigestion and hangover).
Travelling around le Massif Central is easy, with good
air and rail services between Paris and the major towns (although some of the
smaller towns and sights are only accessible by car). Driving the narrow winding roads is a thrill,
rewarded by superb views at every hairpin turn. It’s also an ideal place to
practice your French, as being away from Paris, English is not so widely spoken
but the people are easy going (unlike
their city compatriots) and will bend over backwards to help you and make you
feel welcome.
This
region is dear to me because it is where I fell in love with France. I lived in
Brive-la-Gaillarde, in Correze, where I still have many good friends with whom
I am in regular contact. Do consider visiting le Massif Central next time you
go to France – I guarantee you won’t be
disappointed.
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