Central Italy – A Peep at Pisa



Pisa is famous throughout the world for the Leaning Tower (la Torre Pendente) which is found in  Piazza dei Miracoli or in English, The Field of Miracles, with the Cathedral, the Baptistery (il Battistero) and the burial ground. The Tower is certainly the biggest draw-card in Pisa, but the city is rich in history and Tuscan tradition.                                                                                                                                           The original town was built some 700 years B.C. on the banks of the Arno River, approximately ten miles inland from the Tyrrhenian Sea,  displaying Ligurian and Etruscan beginnings. By 180 BC it had become a Roman colony, Pisae.    Up to 800 AD Pisa was repeatedly sacked by various enemies including the Vikings, Byzantines, and Saracens. Through trade agreements, land deals, and the occasional successful rebellion, the Pisans were able to maintain control of the territory and develop lucrative trading activities with Spain to the west and the prosperous merchants of northern Africa to the south. In 1075 the elder statesmen of Pisa developed a code of laws known as the Conseutudini di Mare. These merchant rulers created a legal environment that enabled the mercantile empire of Pisa to prosper. 



In 1099 the Pisans joined the Vatican in the 1st Crusades. This was a period of thriving economic growth and expansion through colonization. During the 12th century Pisa developed several colonies; among them were Antioch, Tripoli, and Tunis. In 1111 the city elders forged an agreement with Byzantium enabling transit for trade in the Holy Land.                                                                                                          The Field of Miracles or Campo dei Miracoli began to take shape in 1118. The famous Leaning Tower of Pisa had not yet been constructed, but in this year the cathedral (Duomo in Italian) was consecrated by Pope Gelasius II. 
It was not until 35 years later, in 1153, that work would begin on the Pisan Baptistery. In 1172, the widow of a wealthy Pisan merchant made a substantial donation of 'sixty coins' to the church with instructions to build the marvellous campanile (bell tower). You will note the wonderful Arabesque style architecture in the buildings.                    

Between 1228 and 1254 there were more skirmishes between Pisa and Florence. The Pisans were able to maintain the upper hand until the armies of Florence finally overcame them in an attack in 1254. Pisa remained sovereign by giving up land to Florence and forging restrictive trade agreements.

In 1284 the Battle of Meloria, fought against Genoa, proved to be one of the most devastating losses in Pisa’s history. A large number of ships were lost along with more than 11,000 men that were killed in battle or imprisoned in Genoa. Less than ten years later, in 1293, the Guelph forces invaded a weakened Pisa and took control of the harbour. The Guelphs forced harsh terms on Pisa that included the loss of Pisan territories on the Mediterranean islands of Sardinia and Corsica.      The first commission to investigate the tilt of the leaning tower was formed in 1298 to tour and inspect the tower, even though the tower had not been completed. At the time the tower did not lean as much as it does today;  The tower was officially completed in 1370 measuring 1.6 degrees from vertical.  

During the 1400s and 1500s Florence continued to attack Pisa until the Pisans were forced to surrender in 1509 giving power of government to the Council of Ten, controlled by Niccolo`Macchiavelli.

Galileo Galilei, born in Vincenzo in 1564, moved to Pisa to teach mathematics at the University of Pisa in 1589. In the period between 1589 and 1591 Galileo conducted experiments on gravitational forces by dropping objects from the leaning tower. During the Inquisition (1633) Galileo was persecuted for heresy because of his support for the Copernican theory of the solar system written in The Dialogue Concerning the Two Chief World Systems (1632).  

Throughout the 18th and 19th century the tower's tilt continued to worsen and several commissions were convened to resolve the problem of the city's most important building. 

Today Pisa has a thriving tourist economy with a population of 100,000 people and a governing authority as a provincial capital of Tuscany. 

After visiting the famous Field, a walk towards the river and commercial centre is full of discoveries. Before reaching Borgo Stretto a coffee at the famous Caffè dell’ Ussero, Palazzo Agostini, host to many famous characters since 1775, is mandatory . Personalities such as Giosuè Carducci, Indro Montanelli, Antonio Tabucchi, John Ruskin, Charles Dickens, Gabriele D’Annunzio, and Emile Zola all passed its portal. Afterwards, if you can't live without good hand-made chocolates, try de Bond, Lungarno Pacinotti 5.There are many wonderful shops displaying a variety of goods from food stuffs to gold and leather goods (most crafted locally in Toscana). Views along the Arno are a delight, with all the colours for which Italy is famous reflected along the river. 

If you’re not sure where to go and what to look for, you can also book a walking tour with one of the licensed Tourist Guides such as Martina Manfredi who is also an Art Historian (see below for contact details).

Martina Manfredi, Tourist Guide and Art Historian. Small groups of up to 8 people.  Available: Monday - Thursday at 10.00 am: Saturday & Sunday 10.00 am & 2.30 pm Cost: from € 20 (depending if lunch part of the tour): children under 6 – free.          Tel: +39 3288982927: Email: artemarty@libero.it