Sunday, 24 June 2012

Central Italy – A Peep at Pisa



Pisa is famous throughout the world for the Leaning Tower (la Torre Pendente) which is found in  Piazza dei Miracoli or in English, The Field of Miracles, with the Cathedral, the Baptistery (il Battistero) and the burial ground. The Tower is certainly the biggest draw-card in Pisa, but the city is rich in history and Tuscan tradition.                                                                                                                                           The original town was built some 700 years B.C. on the banks of the Arno River, approximately ten miles inland from the Tyrrhenian Sea,  displaying Ligurian and Etruscan beginnings. By 180 BC it had become a Roman colony, Pisae.    Up to 800 AD Pisa was repeatedly sacked by various enemies including the Vikings, Byzantines, and Saracens. Through trade agreements, land deals, and the occasional successful rebellion, the Pisans were able to maintain control of the territory and develop lucrative trading activities with Spain to the west and the prosperous merchants of northern Africa to the south. In 1075 the elder statesmen of Pisa developed a code of laws known as the Conseutudini di Mare. These merchant rulers created a legal environment that enabled the mercantile empire of Pisa to prosper. 



In 1099 the Pisans joined the Vatican in the 1st Crusades. This was a period of thriving economic growth and expansion through colonization. During the 12th century Pisa developed several colonies; among them were Antioch, Tripoli, and Tunis. In 1111 the city elders forged an agreement with Byzantium enabling transit for trade in the Holy Land.                                                                                                          The Field of Miracles or Campo dei Miracoli began to take shape in 1118. The famous Leaning Tower of Pisa had not yet been constructed, but in this year the cathedral (Duomo in Italian) was consecrated by Pope Gelasius II. 
It was not until 35 years later, in 1153, that work would begin on the Pisan Baptistery. In 1172, the widow of a wealthy Pisan merchant made a substantial donation of 'sixty coins' to the church with instructions to build the marvellous campanile (bell tower). You will note the wonderful Arabesque style architecture in the buildings.                    



Between 1228 and 1254 there were more skirmishes between Pisa and Florence. The Pisans were able to maintain the upper hand until the armies of Florence finally overcame them in an attack in 1254. Pisa remained sovereign by giving up land to Florence and forging restrictive trade agreements.
In 1284 the Battle of Meloria, fought against Genoa, proved to be one of the most devastating losses in Pisa’s history. A large number of ships were lost along with more than 11,000 men that were killed in battle or imprisoned in Genoa. Less than ten years later, in 1293, the Guelph forces invaded a weakened Pisa and took control of the harbour. The Guelphs forced harsh terms on Pisa that included the loss of Pisan territories on the Mediterranean islands of Sardinia and Corsica.      The first commission to investigate the tilt of the leaning tower was formed in 1298 to tour and inspect the tower, even though the tower had not been completed. At the time the tower did not lean as much as it does today;  The tower was officially completed in 1370 measuring 1.6 degrees from vertical.  
During the 1400s and 1500s Florence continued to attack Pisa until the Pisans were forced to surrender in 1509 giving power of government to the Council of Ten, controlled by Niccolo`Macchiavelli.
Galileo Galilei, born in Vincenzo in 1564, moved to Pisa to teach mathematics at the University of Pisa in 1589. In the period between 1589 and 1591 Galileo conducted experiments on gravitational forces by dropping objects from the leaning tower. During the Inquisition (1633) Galileo was persecuted for heresy because of his support for the Copernican theory of the solar system written in The Dialogue Concerning the Two Chief World Systems (1632).  
Throughout the 18th and 19th century the tower's tilt continued to worsen and several commissions were convened to resolve the problem of the city's most important building. 
Today Pisa has a thriving tourist economy with a population of 100,000 people and a governing authority as a provincial capital of Tuscany. 



After visiting the famous Field, a walk towards the river and commercial centre is full of discoveries. Before reaching Borgo Stretto a coffee at the famous Caffè dell’ Ussero, Palazzo Agostini, host to many famous characters since 1775, is mandatory . Personalities such as Giosuè Carducci, Indro Montanelli, Antonio Tabucchi, John Ruskin, Charles Dickens, Gabriele D’Annunzio, and Emile Zola all passed its portal. Afterwards, if you can't live without good hand-made chocolates, try de Bond, Lungarno Pacinotti 5.There are many wonderful shops displaying a variety of goods from food stuffs to gold and leather goods (most crafted locally in Toscana). Views along the Arno are a delight, with all the colours for which Italy is famous reflected along the river. 

If you’re not sure where to go and what to look for, you can also book a walking tour with one of the licensed Tourist Guides such as Martina Manfredi who is also an Art Historian (see below for contact details).
Martina Manfredi, Tourist Guide and Art Historian. Small groups of up to 8 people.  Available: Monday - Thursday at 10.00 am: Saturday & Sunday 10.00 am & 2.30 pm Cost: from € 20 (depending if lunch part of the tour): children under 6 – free.          Tel: +39 3288982927: Email: artemarty@libero.it


 










                                                                 

Saturday, 16 June 2012

Paris - Albert Kahn Japanese Gardens, Museum and Conservatory.

Photo by Salix
One of the most beautiful parks in Paris is this little-known gem waiting for the discerning traveller at the end of the Boulogne-Billancourt métro. Known and loved by keen gardeners and of those seeking a spiritual oasis, these delightful gardens and photography museum provide a gentle respite from the chaos of central Paris. The gardens and museum were created by Albert Kahn, a banker, philanthropist and inveterate world traveller. He believed that having an understanding and respect for other cultures could lead to peaceful co-existence throughout the world. He established his unique gardens in 1898 and continued to develop them until he fell victim to the Wall Street crash during the Depression of 1929 and lost everything. The gardens were then taken over by the Prefecture of the Seine but Albert Kahn continued to live in the house and enjoy his gardens until 1940, when he died during the German occupation of France.  

Photo Arno Drucker
During the blistering heat of the Parisian summer, the gardens make a wonderful respite from the sizzling streets and glare of buildings. They are the perfect symbol of peace and harmony and even on the hottest days the sun filters through the fan-shaped leaves of the ginkgo-biloba trees that form a canopy over the sun-dappled paths and offer much-needed shade to people wandering through the park. Tourists sit under the giant Linden trees chatting and snacking or merely people-watching.  Locals enjoy the different ambience for a while during their busy day.

Photo Atsirou
It’s a wonderful place for reflection and meditation. Gold, orange and black-speckled koi carp entertain passers-by with synchronised swimming through the waters of the ornamental lake. They flash under the brightly painted red bridges (echoes of Monet’s gardens in Giverny) and rush to the edge of the lake, eyes rolling and mouths opening and closing hopefully.  
The scent of roses perfume the air and waft up from the English and French gardens where the gardeners busily tend the plants. 
Not to be forgotten is  the little museum. There are interesting collections of photographs with the theme of life in Brittany at the end of the 19th century arranged on the walls. Antique cameras and filming equipment are displayed in backlit showcases and huge wall-mounted screens show archive film of life in Morocco, Algiers and rural France. There are interactive booths where one can sit and be taken on a digital journey through the life and achievements of Albert Kahn. There is also a BBC Documentary called The Wonderful World of Albert Kahn for those interested in a sneak preview.

If you are in Paris in April or May, the blossoms and azaleas are in bloom. A little taste of Cherry Blossom time in Paris!  What an amazing experience! 


Photo steff 123 
Albert Kahn, museum and gardens (le Musée départemental Albert-Kahn)
Tél: 01 55 19 28 00, 10-14, rue du Port, 92100 Boulogne-Billancourt  
Métro: 10, Boulogne – Pont de Saint-Cloud.















Saturday, 9 June 2012

Lucca – A Hidden Jewel in the Tuscan Landscape


One of the most picturesque Tuscan towns, enclosed by a ring of Renaissance walls and beautiful gardens, Lucca is just 17 kilometres inland from Pisa. Although quiet during the cooler months, Lucca becomes animated during the summer months, with many people travelling from Florence and Siena to visit its narrow streets and tidy squares, however one of the many charms of this quintessential Italian city is that it has not been spoilt by mass tourism.


A walk or bicycle-ride along the wall offers some great vantage points to enjoy the surroundings and admire the town. There are many artisans still making goods using traditional methods. Then of course there are several good restaurants and lots of shops stocking local agricultural produce and excellent local wine ……… all which require careful tasting!  




Due to the rich productive land around it, Lucca has been a prosperous town since Roman times and was at its height from the eleventh to the fourteenth centuries, when it provided silk to merchants and wealthy aristocrats. Lucca lost her independence to Pisa in 1314 but after some years managed to regain it and hold on to it until it fell to Napoleon and then the Bourbons several hundred years later. 
One of Italy’s most famous musicians – Giacomo Puccini was born in Lucca in 1858 and in his memory, every evening from March to October there are little concerts in the Cathedral San Martino.  

   
Today the population of Lucca is approximately 90,000 so it is big enough to satisfy cultural and shopping needs, but small enough to retain the authentic spirit of town life in Italy.                                                                                                                   

It is also home to the excellent Lucca Italian School where one can undertake a language course and also participate in other activities such as cooking, painting and cultural visits to surrounding points of interest. They see Lucca as the classroom and so the students can learn first- hand in a variety of situations. With small groups of a maximum of 8 people and flexible hours, it is possible to find a tailor- made language learning experience. Of course if you prefer individual lessons or family classes, they are available too (see below).

LUCCA ITALIAN SCHOOL, Via S.Anna 14, 55100 Lucca
  • learner-oriented method                                  
  • innovative school
  • “tailor-made” lessons
  • school for families
  • courses/lessons at your place (house, hotel)
  • a wide range of cultural activities
  • flexible hours