LA BELLE NORMANDIE

France receives more international tourists than any other country in Europe, but most choose to spend their time sightseeing in Paris, skiing in the Alps, sunning themselves on the Med or eating and drinking their way through the Loire. As delightful as these activities may be, there are many other regions which rightly deserve our attention and amongst these is Normandy - la belle Normandie!

If you drive out from Paris in a west-north-westerly direction, you will soon find yourself in the old Duchy of Normandy - birthplace of William the Conqueror, or as the French more prosaically call him, Guillaume le Bâtard, (and yes, that does mean he was born out of wedlock!). His promotion from duke of a remote corner of France to King of England was by anyone’s standards meteoric, and you can visit Bayeux to view that wonderful piece of Gallic self-promotion, the Bayeux Tapestry, commissioned by Guillaume himself. Stitched with woollen thread on to linen, the tapestry retells the events of 1066 frame by frame, and it is the vitality of the needlework that impresses rather than the quality of the needlework itself.

A visit to Normandy would not be complete without passing through Giverny which Monet made his home. You can walk through the beautifully maintained villa and imagine the great artist sashaying around his blue and yellow rooms, tweaking his still life arrangements, and gazing through the shuttered windows on to the lush watery gardens, brimming with blossoms of every hue. You can also pause for a photo on the Japanese bridge, with the 500 other tourists who are lining up.

 We head north to the picturesque port of Honfleur, situated on the southern bank of the Seine estuary, from where many French explorers set sail in search of new lands.  In medieval times, its strategic location was instrumental in its development as a major port serving trade between France and Britain, but the silting up of the estuary and the development of Le Havre caused its demise. This, thankfully, has left the town with a very quaint ambience and there can be few experiences in life more joyously rewarding than quaffing a good red in the late summer afternoon, looking out over the serious, seagoing hardware in the port marina at Honfleur.

Normandy is a region of rolling green hills thanks to its reliable rainfall and temperate climate, not unlike Cornwall in England, and like its British counterpart, has a world-famous reputation for the quality of its dairy products, and especially its cheeses. Lacking vineyards, the local beverages are apple-based – cider and calvados, that lovely light apple brandy which they splash liberally over buttery galettes, the wholemeal pancakes for which the region is renowned. No visitor can leave Normandy before they have stocked up on salted caramels (these come chewy, extra chewy and filling-extractors) chocolates in the shape of sardines, luscious marine salts flavoured with seaweed,( you can add them to food or take a long soak in them) or enormous cans of soupe de poisson.                                                                                                   

Tourist accommodation in Normandy is so well-priced compared with the more well-known regions of France. Unless you really insist on camping, and truly there are many well-equipped campsites in the area, it is the perfect excuse to splash out and book in to one of the many chateaux and manoirs on offer. No squat little rooms with TV and bar fridges here! Often 20 feet ceilings and enough room to swing a whole menagerie and there is always, always, a beautiful garden and a degustation menu. Usually family run, the hosts take the time to get to know their guests and it is an ideal way to practice your French “ How much does this cost?” and “Where is the bathroom?”

So there we are, Normandy. You really should just take the time and go. A la prochaine.